Tim and Patrices Travel Blog
Tims amazing weblog, so you can see what he’s up to.Archive for February, 2008
Finland photos video
Finland Video
A short video with some of the finland trip photos and video clips in it.
Farewell – Day 7
Our flights were not until later that evening and a taxi was booked for 5pm to take us from Basecamp. In the morning Patrice and I took our the cross country skis and had a final spin around lake Juuma. In the afternoon after a late lunch the group took one last look at the Myllykosi. We each threw a snowball over our shoulders into the river a look a minute of contemplation. As we returned I passed a lone fisherman sat around a small fire by the mill. He was at one with ‘the nature’ and epitomised my Finland holiday. Our warmest thanks to our guide Satu for helping to make our trip to finland very memorable.
Little Bear Trail – Day 6
After our night out on the ice we decided, with our spare free day, to try and walk the ‘Little Bear’ or Pieni Karhunkierros Trail. The trail was advertised as 12km long and ‘moderate – demanding’. Most others in the group had similar plans and several extra trips to the breakfast bar each, we had requisitioned enough breakfast rolls for various picnics. Patrice and I set off with snowshoes on the back of our rucksacks just in case they were needed.
The walk were very picturesque and began by following the river Kitkajoki as it rushed over several famous waterfalls and rapids. All but one were tame enough for white water rafting in the summer. The river cut a deep gorge and the path lay at the top. The thickness of the forest and the snow laden trees and forest floor damped down the sound of the river in such a way that you had to be within metres of the edge of the gorge to hear the river. It was an exciting walk which took you perilously close to the edge of the gorge. No council signs warning of the stupidity of getting too close were seen. This was a walk for those who accepted their own personal responsibility. We put on our snow shoes. The path descended into the gorge and we came across a frozen waterfall. Our guide leaflet informed us that in the summer the waterfall (some 4m drop) was too high for both rafts to come down and for Salmon to swim up for spawning. There were two separate breeds of salmon either side of it.
A short time later we crossed the river via a 50m foot suspension bridge. At the other side we found another shelter at Harrisuvanto where we had lunch overlooking the bridge.
The map and guide advised us that the next section would be ‘a demanding 100-metre-climb to Kallioportti along steps made into the hillside.’ Despite the advice we had not expected the huge amount of steps that appeared to go on and on to raise us out of the gorge. As always they were covered in a compacted snow and ice and the snow shoes were invaluable. The snow and ice landscape continued and we eventually looped back on ourselves and back to Basecamp. The additional effort of managing to walk in the snow and the steps meant the 12 kilometres felt more like 12 miles.
In the evening we had a farewell supper where we gathered at basecamp and then walked a short distance guided only by a trail of tea lights set in the snow. It was magical. We came a a piar of wooden shelters facing a roaring open fire. At either end were traditional tipis. We ate Reindeer stew with mashed pototes and it being closed to Shrove Tuesday were each invited to the fireside to cook our own pancakes for dessert.
We returned to Basecamp full tired and happy, the holiday had been great. We were sat around the fireplace in the dining room at about ten thirty. Most others had gone to bed. Our guide suddenly came in and told us the Northern Lights could be seen. Many room lights were turned off and we stood on a balcony watching a faint green glow across the tree tops. I hurriedly went back to the room to get my camera and on return found that the group had gone down to the lake. When I found them the faint green glow had grown into something more spectacular. I borrowed a fellow photographer’s tripod and made a number of thirty second exposures into the night sky. This was a perfect ending to a perfect holiday.
Quinzhee – Day 5
Day five was wilderness skills day! After breakfast we headed down to the frozen lake Juuma with a number of shovels, spades and snow moving implements. We were split into two groups and told we were going to make a Quinzhee each on the snow. We would have the opportunity to sleep in it that night.
We set to work and by lunch on the lake were two large (10ft diameter and 6ft high) piles of compacted snow. Before lunch we messed about with a few pieces of wood and rope making an emergency stretcher. By the afternoon the mild icy wind had set out snow harder and we set to work excavating them. To begin with this was a slightly daunting and claustrophobic affair but soon there was enough space inside for an excavator to place new snow by the door where it was moved away. We had a system going. Within the hour we had finished, excavating only to the depth of a number of stakes we had placed through the structure to guarantee walls were at least 20cm think. All six members of the team squeezed into the fruits of our labour, it was cramped, misty but surprisingly warm.
Patrice, adamant that sleeping outside on a frozen lake in a snow structure was not for her, changed her mind and as dusk fell we gathered around a camp fire on the lake shore. We returned to Basecamp for dinner and a warm shower.
After dinner we each collected an excellently warm sleeping bag (rated to -35oc) and two camping mattresses. At around 10pm Patrice and I met Gerald who also claimed he was fool hardy enough for the venture. We made our way down through a small forest to the lake, in the dark leaving behind a number of centrally heated empty chalets.
The night passed without event and was warm. In the morning the sleeping bags were wet on the outside, possibly from condensation, possibly from the icy roof but the water didn’t penetrate and we were each warm and conformable enough. We made our way back for breakfast.
Snowmobile – Day 4
Day four and we were back in a minibus heading to goodness knows where. I had done some research that evening. Oulanka National Park was one of ten Panparks throughout Europe. Having seen their brochure I made a mental note to visit some more. The brochure claimed that Panparks were the gateway to exploring the best of Europe’s Wilderness. From what I had seen I was inclined to agree. This was truly wild country. As we sped along the country roads, totally covered in snow and ice and at about 60 kph I was impressed at the driving skills of the Finns and realised why so many Finns were rally drivers. We arrived at a Snowmobiling centre in nearby Ruka. This was an additional activity and Patrice and I decided to share a Snowmobile. Another curiously short briefing ensued. It consisted of:
1) Anyone done this before ? No. Should be interesting.
2) Keep 20 metres from vehicle in front.
3) Brake is situated here, accelerator here.
4) It an automatic – no other controls.
We were issued with more specialist equipment, a thermal all-in-one suit each, a helmet liner and crash helmet. Within minutes the cold air was clouded with nine four stroke engines warming up on full choke. A further minute later and we were off. We snaked across the countryside keeping to the extensive set of specially set aside trails. Sometimes next to roads, sometimes across lakes, sometimes down forest firebrakes. This was fun. Unfortunately the group had to travel at the speed of the slowest although fun could be had by slowing down and letting the vehicle in front disappear into the distance and then open the throttle wide and hang on! After around two hours of increasingly frustrating speed I broke a rule and overtook one of the group. I was later advised by a fellow overtaker of the speed at which I had done this which remains a secret (although it was in kph so sounded faster). The trip took two and a half hours and was thoroughly enjoyable. In the afternoon we were left to our own devices in the ski resort of Ruka which, if I am honest, is best left unvisited unless you want a cheap skiing holiday. The afternoon passed slowly and was the low-light of the trip.
Dog sledding – Day 3
We were picked up and taken a short ride to Era-Susi Huskies . Here we were met by a traditionally dressed and very bearded husky farmer Jukka ‘Susi’ Nordman. He gave us a very quick briefing which mainly consisted of:
1) Hang on,
2) Use your weight like riding a bike on turns,
3) Brake before turns but not in them,
4) Leave 30 metres space between your lead Husky and the sled in front,
5) Once on the brake don’t ever get off until a handler comes to you.
The sleds were wooden and had a foot brake which dug into the ice to slow the sled down.
We were led to our awaiting sleds. We each had our own sled with four eager and noisy huskies. They were fresh out of their kennels and clearly loved their work. They wanted to run and run fast. I got on a sled and a handler came and un-pegged my sledge. Even with the brake on the force of four dogs pulling together was enough to jerk it forward. I released the brake and held on for dear life. The dogs went off like a rocket and I nearly fell off the back. They knew the ten kilometre course well. It stretched out before me like a giant white Scaleletric course. Most of the time you could see where the course went, sometimes dangerously close to trees and over an occasional small bridge. I relaxed into the ride. This was fun. Suddenly, while hurtling forward at running pace the dogs veered ninety degrees left. Woooa, tight bend. I hadn’t seen that coming. I braked hard and lent hard left. The sledge whipped round and the dogs looked back in disgust, another punter didn’t know how to drive.
Occasionally the sled began to veer off track and I learnt to use weight shift to steer it back on course. Occasionally we stopped as one in our train had problems. I noticed the sled driver in front was riding with hardly any brake on at all whilst I was having to constantly slow my dogs down. We stopped and my closest dog went berserk jumping wildly with enthusiasm in the air. We were off again. This time it was my turn to stop the train. Dog two decided it wanted to lead the pack and attacked the lead dog. A frenzy of fur and fangs ensued for a few seconds until one dog, and I was not sure which one, set firmly upon the other, fangs showing. A guide came over. I stayed firmly on the brake behind the sled. A short demonstration on how to handle misbehaving working dogs ensued and voices were raised. Forgetting who was a dog and who was a client for a second the guide shouted at me to keep the brake on. I did as I was told. So there was the power hierarchy. Guide first, me second, dogs third, but occasionally the dogs knew they were second really. After the sled ride were taken to a traditional Kuto, rather like a wooden wigwam and treated to hot buns, sausage and a cup of warming coffee.
In the afternoon we visited a reindeer farm (Orjasnieme Reindeer Village). Here we were treated to a short reindeer ride, pulled round a short course in what appeared to be a dug out canoe. Compared with the excitement of the morning it was a rather tame affair. We then fed a number of reindeers with twigs and leaves and were invited into another warm building for yet more cakes and coffee. Patrice asked the Reindeer farmer a long list of questions and is now a Reindeer authority. In an attempt to appease her he gave a number of brochures free of charge including the annual report of the Reindeer Husbandry Association of Finland and a recipe book containing a number of imaginative ways of eating the critters. Both, I’m sure, will be very useful resource books for the future.
Learning to Cross Country Ski – Day 2
Our second day started in a similar way to the first but this time we would be learning to use cross country skis. We lined up in the basement where were we each given a new set of boots. These had a metal bar at the front. We then collected our skis and were taught how to put the skis on. After another warm up session were out on the snow of lake Juuma. It wasn’t as easy as it looked and there was definately a technique. At slow speeds falling over was likely. We made our way through a forest and the views were amazing. Again we returned to Basecamp for lunch and in the afternoon Patrice and I ventured onto the lake alone. The peace and quiet was almost deafening as we made our way across the frozen lake towards a distant island. On arrival we had a sip of warm water (an ideal drink in the circumstances) and looked at tracks in the snow left by wildlife which included a forest rabbit. We returned by nightfall to a hearty dinner and slept soundly.
Learning to Snowshoe – Day 1
We were staying in Oulanka National Park.
After breakfast we were each given a set of snowshoes. These are made of plastic and fit onto a boot with three straps across the front of the foot and one behind. They pivot and have a series of metal grips, like a crampon to prevent both front and back and sideways movement. Quiet they are not. Stalking wildlife would not be an option in these things. With the addition of a pair of ski poles we were ready.
We gathered in a circle and had a ‘warm up’ to stretch our cold muscles. We then split into two groups and set off into the woods, off the beaten tracks. At first I was sure such contraptions would prevent me from sinking into the snow, after all that it what they are there for? We each took turns in taking the lead. I soon discovered I was wrong. The snow was deep and the shoes prevented a complete sink but non-the-less sank at least two foot with every stride. This was hard. After about two or three minutes a nominated leader fell to the back of the queue where life was much easier. After about half an hour and many tumbles we arrived at Myllykosi. Here we found an old water mill next to the fast flowing river Kitajoki. The mill had been built in 1926 to grind Barley and Rye however a poor location meant business was slow and mill ceased production in 1947. It has since been renovated into a wilderness hut. At the rear was an open fireplace – one of many we would find in the park. The view was almost too perfect and reminded me of a set from a 50’s Hollywood movie. I half expected Howard Keal to emerge from the mill in full song. He didn’t and we set off back towards Basecamp. En-route we were encouraged to take a minute or two out and hug a tree. Our guide was serious. She was clearly untainted by the ‘tree hugger’ cliché we all did as we were told, and it was good. If there was an earth god, a Ghia then she was somewhere about. Clearly the Fins had no problem in expressing their love of ‘the nature’. Some members of the groups remained resolutely anglo-saxon and scoffed.
We returned to Basecamp for lunch. In the afternoon with new found skills in the art of staying mainly on top of snow we set off for a ‘walk’ around part of the ‘Little Bear’ or Pieni Karhunkierros Trail. Going was slow and it being the first day we were unsure of the time of nightfall. When we saw the sun setting we turned around and retraced our steps. I noticed the harsh white snow had adopted a softer pink hue and occasional tree tops were bathed in sunlight. We were to learn that direct sunlight is a rare commodity.
Finland – Transfer and arrival
We had booked our holiday through Exodus holidays. It was the Finnish Wilderness Week. We had a 3 hour flight and 50 minute transfer to our ‘BaseCamp.’ The time difference is plus two hours so by the time we arrived is was very dark and about eight o clock. Dinner was ready waiting. The accommodation was excellent. There was a large dining room/ bar /reception all laid out in a large log cabin. The windows were triple glazed. Underneath was the fitting room, a sauna and outside jacuzzi. Our room was one in a small block a minutes walk away. Again it was purpose built and less than two years old.
We were led to the fitting room. Fun and adventure in Finland is serious business and you need the right kit. Luckily the Basecamp had all the right stuff, all in good (new) condition and very warm. We each received a pair of thermals (tops and bottoms), a fleece under jacket, a good pair of over trousers, a warm outer shell jacket, a pair of Salomon snow shoes, a pair of gloves, a pair of mittens and a beany hat. As we all paraded from the fitting rooms in matching blue jackets we appeared to be ‘Team Smurf.’
We took our kit back to the room and on arrival noticed the temperature of the room was sweltering. I quickly turned down the room thermometer from 22 to 20. It was time for bed.
