Tim and Patrices Travel Blog
Tims amazing weblog, so you can see what he’s up to.Archive for June, 2008
To St Benoit du Sault
Tired and aiming for a campsite in this medieval village in the middle of no where we had no luck. This was the first time we had to resort to a Chambre De Hote. The village was great. We didn`t sleep as well as usual.
Solstice Music Festival
Determined to try some French culture we tracked down a genuine village music festival. Good points were that it was very inclusive and attracted people of all ages. There was no visible anti social behaviour. Bad points were the music was poor and the villagers didnt seem to be able to enjoy it. There was no dancing.
Troglodyte village
We came across this just outside Azay Le Rideau. It was very interesting covering farming for many hundred years, the locals lived in dug out caves in the soft limestone and were self sustainable. It was only discovered in the 1960s.
On to La Loire
We left the canal and headed down to Carnac to see the world famous standing stones and mighty impressive they were. Over a thousand standing stones about 5000 years old. Nice, but some would say people had too much time on their hands. No-one today seems to know why the Neolithic people put them there. There were also several tombs in the area. Some of which we explored with a torch.
We then travelled east and north of Nantes. We arrived on La Loire four days ago. The broad, open reaches of the river, with high waters are a welcome sight. After a couple of long hills to get there! It is mainly flat cycling paths on a great new cycle route. On Sunday we got caught up with a Fete du velo – a celebration of cycling, health, family day out, etc. It was great fun and we had lunch with the locals, including local fire water made from apples. You should always be suspicious of a farmer proudly offering his own special drink from an unlabelled bottle!
At a camp site in a Horses` arse town, by this we mean a town where nothing is open and no-one can be seen, the tumble weed rolls across the streets; the wind whistles, etc, we met a couple of New Zealanders – veteran tourers and picked up lots of tips. Eg; breaking the handle off your toothbrush; thread your washing through the washing line, no pegs required! At nearly 60yrs old they were cycling Barcelona to the Netherlands!!
Continuing up La Loire, we are now at Saumur. We have cycled over 1200km and are taking a well earned rest day; well, more Patrice`s bike is in hospital. Front head set needs replacing with new forks for 150 euros. Old bike now traded in for a new bike! Both still fit and well and the limiting factors are not health, but money. We are finding food to be 30% more expensive than at home. We are having to learn not to eat out as much, you can imagine how difficult this is for us. We are becoming more imaginative on our Trangia. We`re now heading off to an underground mushroom museum …
On the canal
The Nante to Brest Canal is very pretty and much recommended. The locks are out of use so it is very quiet on the upper parts.
North Coast, Canals and Standing Stones
The weather is now much better. Following our little mishap with the bike chain we got underway and headed north east. This French keyboard is really slowing things down so will type in QUERTY, excuse the spellings.
We stqrted heqding north east and soon got to the rugged north coqast of Brittainy. Very beautiful. We spent two nights at two camps up there and then began to cycle south to meet the Breast-Nante canal. We are averging 65km a day, not much but with panniers this is 6 or 7 hours cycling with 45mins or so for lunch.
We over stretched and ended up doing 95km having found a nice converted railway.
The canal was beautiful. Mostly disused but still with water it rose over 80m the first day through a number of old locks each with its own cottage. We spent two days on the canal of around 65km each before heading south towards Carnac. This is the home of strange standing stones in their hundreds. The place puts Stonehenge to shame although the tourist support in terms of explaination, English or French leaves much to be desired.
After 15 days we have cycled over 700 km and both P and I feel much healthier for it. Sleep is not as good as a real bed. Most nights we are tucked up by 10:30 having watched the sun go down. Money is more of an issue as we are around 15 pounds over budget each day. More trips to Super U supermarket are required.
Cycling such a long way is very good for the soul. Its almost nomadic and we have had a number of conversations in french with interested people.
I think P is loosing weight although she doesnt see it yet. I certainly feel fitter and lighter.
We now have over 100 photographs and are looking at downloading them soon.
Tim
wendy’s comment on trip so far
O.K I am still learning all about this modern technology stuff. Hope this works.
Great diary so far. Patrice, you will need an award at the end of this if you can cope with Tim’s moods! I can just imagine what he was like when his chain went and the shops were shut. (Mondays in France are like Sundays as far as shops go. Beware and be prepared!)
Is Tim slim yet?
Have fun
Love Sis.
Wet wet wet!
Tuesday 27 May – Monday 2 Jun
It is raining today! Opportunity to dash into the internet and blog. Having arrived off the boat early Tue morning we got to grips with cycling on the other side of the road. Initially through an industrial estate – not our initial expectation of France. Then the mountenous bridge Pont de Normandie and into the countryside. Breakfast at Honfleur, sat beside the basin. An afternoon of undulating hard cycling and covered 56km. Found a nice camp right by the sea.
Following morning, awoke to rain and continued to cycle the Normandie coast – good flat cycling. Tim got over excited when we crossed the Pegasus bridge. Today was a day of reflection and respect for the 6 June 1944 D Day landings. Cemetries, remembrance plaques, tanks and the remains of one of the Mulberry Harbours at Arromanche. Headed inland to Bayeux to camp. 68 km today.
A rest day in Bayeux. A lovely medieval town with a river and of course the famous tapestry. We went to see it – a must as every child of our generation learnt about it at school. Although we both learnt the French twist that Harold had betrayed William and hence the subsequent battle of Hastings, or maybe we both weren’t paying attention in the history lessons at school?
Next day back in the saddle. Took a forest path en route and a 270m hill to Tessy-sur-Vire. We found a lovely campsite … closed! Having asked an elderly French gentleman whether it was closed, he sent us on to Pont Farcy. Distance today 72 km. The small hamlet had one restaurant and it was fully booked! Tinned Beef and bread for us!
Another long day. Overcast but warm. Heading SW to Mont St Michel. Arrived about 4pm. Camped at the nearest campsite to the causeway. The best pitch in the site No 179 … the only one with a view of Mont St Michel. We dumped our stuff in the tent and cycled the causeway. Impressive architecture, but very touristy, almost Disneylike. Our perfect pitch was down-graded when we returned to 30 kids in the TV room adjacent to our tent having a happy-clappy church session complete with drums, trumpets and claxons past 11pm!! Tim got it shut down. Who says we British never complain. 70 km cycled.
Awoke to damp but not raining start. It has tended to rain at night, but not during the day. An easier day cycling on flat polders around the Bay of St Michel with the wind behind. Inland to Dinan and we are now in Brittany. Tim was hoping to off load several items as he is complaining about the weight he is carrying (not just himself) to his Dad who was staying nearby. However, fearful of blockades Tim’s dad decided to go home early. We are soggy and alone in the Brittany rains. To top it all, Patrice had a puncture today and Tim’s gears are playing up. 60 km cycle.
Today, woke up to heavy rain, more rain and rain. We have a river running through the outer tent! Went to the site cafe and supermarket. Shut. Cycled in the rain into Dinan, Tim’s chain snapped along with his temper. Found a cycle shop the other side of town. Shut. However; found another cycle shop. Shut. Discovered that Monday is a bad day to break down in France. Intend to be outside shop, loaded up with all our gear at 10am tomorrow for sympathy vote to get bike fixed asap. Tim has bought a big box to send stuff back to his mummy in the UK. Patrice now envisages Tim cycling the rest of France in just his undies! I leave you with this pleasant thought.
