Tim and Patrices Travel Blog
Tims amazing weblog, so you can see what he’s up to.Archive for November, 2008
Nainital
Hello everyone, we are safe. We are now in the hill town of Nainital. It’s at 1930m so the airs a bit thinner. Crisp packets are always fun to see up here, they are packed near sea level at 1 bar so when they get up here they look pretty inflated. Yesterday we look at cable car up 200m and finished the other 400m off on foot. We ended up on Naina Peak at 2633m. Our crisp packet was ready to explode!
The views were fantastic, you could see hundreds of miles north the China border and a row of snow capped peaks forming the Big Boy Himalaya. Some of the peaks were 7500m high.
I’m reading a book called Emotional Intelligence at the moment. It seems there is a place in your brain that recognises things you don’t like before you consciously recognise them. It’s to speed up the flight or fight response. Today we went to visit some caves and near the end was a very poor plastic tiger. I caught it out of the corner of my eye and the adrenaline surged. It seems my little incident a few days ago has caused a primeval neuro-pathway link. See a tiger out of the corner of your eye and get ready to run before you can even figure out what it is. Cleaver stuff really.
Tiger Charge Corbett Park India
Reader draw close. I have a tail to tell so amazing it will remain etched in my memory for ever.
The day safari started at six in the morning. We were in one of a dozen or so safari jeeps waiting for the gate to open to Corbett National Park. Once it did a frenzy of activity as the drivers raced up the track, all in search of the icon of India, the illusive tiger.
By eight in the morning we were parked in the right area and had seen dozens of fresh tracks in the dust and mud of the jeep trails that crossed the park. Males, females, cubs all were in the area. We saw an abundance of wildlife, Samber Deer, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, a pair of Great Pied Hornbill in flight and troops of monkeys. The scenery was breathtaking as we drove around the undulating tracks in the park, stopping to drink in the sights, sounds and smells.
All too soon the morning safari drew to a close. The morning had been to intoxicating we decided to pay an extra fee for a full day. After breakfast the tourist jeeps thinned considerably and we could have been mistaken for thinking we were the only ones left in the park. Occasionally however we drove past another jeep, stopped and exchanged information. The morning passed with a series of very relaxing stops, listening to the wildlife.
At around eleven we heard the bark. It was a deer screeching the alarm call of a nearby predator. I learned that both deer and monkeys call out nearby danger. Useful if you are tracking a predator.
We headed towards the noise, the great hunter armed only with camera and some intelligence. We were the dominant species here. Again we stopped and listened. Another bark, two hundred metres off to our left. We drove down a small track and made a right turn onto another track with elephant grass and dense bushes either side. We again stopped. By this time two other jeeps had appeared, one some 50 metres further down the track and another a similar distance behind us. We listened. I turned and faced the bushes as the side of the jeep. Again a bark, ahead of me and only 50 metres away. I looked into the bushes and could see no further than a few metres. If the tiger emerged from here it we be next to me. The height of the jeep meant I was less than a metre from the floor and unprotected. I felt very vulnerable. We stayed there, silent for perhaps fifteen minutes. The waiting game. Occasionally the deer barked it’s call letting us know it was still in danger. I could hear my heart beat in my cerotic vein. Every blade of elephant grass that whispered in the breeze caught my attention and glance. For over five hundred generations I had evolved to this point. To be an intelligent hunter, super attuned for this very occasion. How many times before in my life had adrenaline kicked it in the name of leisure, perhaps a film. This was the real deal.
A growl. Time stopped. Breathing stopped. Perhaps ten metres? Directly in front. The hunter and the hunted. The hunted and the hunter. In that brief second our roles switched and I realized my arrogance. Another growl. Dear God it had moved. Same distance but to my left. Another growl, again further left. We had blocked it’s path and it was moving around us. Still no sight. Another growl. My heart raced Then nothing. Suddenly in my peripheral vision I saw movement. I jumped. I then realized it was occupants of the other jeep frantically but silently waving for our attention. The tiger had broken cover and was crossing the riverbed down the track in front of us. I held on as we drove closer. Then we saw it. 120kg of male tiger, perhaps five years old, calming and confidently walking across the open river bed. I began to photograph as fast as I could. After about a minute it reached the track in front of us, about forty metres distant and thankfully walking away. The driver started the engine and squeezed past the other jeep. ‘Buzz, buzz,’ The guide warned the driver, slowly slowly. We edged closer. Was this a good idea? The guide told us the tiger was in must. I had seen stag Deer in must once, aggressive, argumentative, tetchy. Was this really a good idea? ‘Buzz, buzz,’ closer and closer. How close were we going to get? My 300mm lense was fully of tiger and I had to pull back on the zoom. I was about to suggest we were close enough when the tiger stopped. It was about 25 metres away. It turned, growled and within a split second started to run towards us!
‘Hut, hut, hut, hut!’ the guide screamed at both the driver and tiger, go go go go!
We slammed into reverse and floored it with no care for the jeeps behind us. I saw the tigers teeth and it’s feet as they spread in the dusty track in front of us. The driver in his cab was fairly safe, the guide was behind us. 120kg of predator was running full pelt at me and Patrice. I braced for the impact with the other jeep. It never came. Thankfully all drivers did the same thing at the same time. The tiger stopped ten metres in front of us. It’s point well made. Respect. Patrice and I sank into our seats. For the next few minutes I was silent. We told the guide that perhaps the other jeeps could have a go at being in front.
Himalaya
Another overnight jump. Only fourteen hours this time ! We caught an overnight train, AC class this time. This has nothing to do with AC and everything to do with keeping people, beggars, touts, salesmen etc. out. It costs three times as much but is well worth it for the peace.
So here we are in Rishikesh. Its the place where the Beatles came to do their hippie thing. More tourists going OMMMMM a lot. It’s also a Ganges sacred bathing point so loads of old men stripping off to do some ritual bathing. I wouldn’t in the river up here. What it is like further down?
There are LOTS of trekking companies here offering lots of excursions. We have paid for three nights accomodation and in this time hope we cn do some research.
Further into the desert
Last night we caught another overnight train. This one had a lot of sand in it. We caught it at 2300 and at 0030 it stopped. From then on we shared the sleeping car with lots of soldiers from the Indian Border Security Force. We are 250km, straight across the desert to Pakistan and it shows. Most were wearing full desert gear with antiquated rifles. At 0400 we stopped at Bikenir – our destination. It is much less touristy than we have seen previously. We are staying at a nice B and B out of town. Camels trot past pulling huge carts of just about everything.
Yesterday we went to the Rat Temple. It’s a temple and it does what is says on the tin. They are encouraged. Allegedly they are thought to be re-incarnated saints. Yeh right. They are ratty, smelly vermin. The place was a tourist circus. Patrice went in, I didn’t. Partly because I don’t like rats, partly because it was a tourist con. She came out with photos and wanted to wash.
We leave on the 19th of a long overnight and following day trip to the Himalaya. No paragliding for me this time. Hopefully the weather will hold out and we can get some hiking in.
We have spent over 85 hours on a train so far, 12 hours on a plane, 73 hours on a boat, 10 hours on a bus and 10 hours on a camel.
We are spending 30.50 pounds a day between us, not bad considering this is an all inclusive price and includes learning to dive at the start of the India leg.
We had originallyplanned to do another camel trip whist here but we are both tired and need a rest. That is the difference between long term travelling and being on a two week holiday, sometimes you just need to do nothing for a while. The B and B has a movie channel and we plan to go square eyed for a while.
Camel Safari
Spot the odd one out !
We have returned from our two day Camel Safari. I misread the sign. Expecting a Safari with Camels and lots of Desserts we instead ended up in the Desert. Oh well, it was nice anyway – but no puddings.
We were driven off into the desert on Thursday morning and met up with the Camel man. Once introduced to our Camels and after a desert breakfast we headed off. It wasn’t too arduous but a little stretching on the inner thigh. Patrice’s camel had a 14 month old baby in tow which provided much entertainment.
After a day in the saddle we made a camp in the dunes and after sunset had dinner and listened to some bad singing. We then tried to sleep within the blankets we had used on the camels during the day. It was cold……
After a poor nights sleep and breakfast we had another day in the saddle and are now back on Jaisalmer. Tonight we catch the overnight train north east.
Jodhpur
We are now well and truly in Rajasthan having taken yet another train ride 12 hours west from Agra. We are Jodhpur, a much nicer place. The children having said ‘Hello’ now ask, ‘How are you?’ or ‘What is you’re good name?’ rather than ‘Rupee!’ Everyone seems very friendly and you can walk the narrow streets without too much hassle.
We arrived yesterday on the overnight train and after a short snooze went and found the Fort. It was superb and in many ways better than the Taj. It was more organized and ready for tourists. We are staying in a Havali which is the name for a merchant’s house. It is in the old city. It is 500 years old and has imposing wooden gates to a courtyard. From here you can see the Fort high on the hill. We wandered through a labyrinth of ancient alleyways and eventually found an old gate to the Fort. For the next 300 metres or so we climbed the approach way alone. We thought we would be the only tourists there! We found the coach park on the other side!
The town is steaming with a Persian influence and has a real Aladdin feel to it. Yesterday Bill Gates was here as part of his work to eradicate Polio. He did the sights.
Rajasthan seems the home of extremely long handlebar moustaches, usually curly at the edges.
Today we headed north some 50km to a small town with a number of temples in it. We have now returned and Patrice is putting her feet up in the Havalli while I am on the web.
Remember, Remember the 5th of November
We left Kochi on the 4th. We were packed and ready to go. I took one last glance at the rail ticket before we set of to the station.
T. ‘So we leave at 0930?’
P. ‘Yes.’
T. ‘We arrive at 0030.’
P. ‘Yes’
T. ‘Have you seen the date on the arrival? It’s not the 5th it’s the 6th!’
P. ‘What ?’
T. ‘This is not a 15 hour train ride, it’s a 39 hour train ride!’
P. ‘Oh, at least we’ll cut down on accommodation costs.’
And so we set forth on our 39 hour train ride. We arrive in Bhopal (just don’t go there) at 0100, wandered the streets (not very nice or safe) and found a hotel. Slept, got up at 0800, breakfast and caught a 10:10 train for an 8 hour ride to Agra.
And here we are. It’s the most touristy place we have been and almost the most destitute. A bad mix. ‘Sir’,'Hello please’,'Rickshaw’, etc. etc. However we are hardened to it now.
This morning we got up at 0530, walked the 500m to the East gate, down a side track and found ourselves at a makeshift jetty where the hotel manager said there was a ferry across the river to see the Taj from the opposite bank. No ferry.
I asked. ‘Yes sir, ferry is here – look.’ The ferryman, wrapped in a headscarf against the morning cold pointed at an old boat down by the litter ridden shore.
And so we crossed the river like Greeks crossing the river Styx to the underworld, through the mist.
The photos are stunning, but we are still on wind-up internet connection so you will have to wait.
Kochi
We are staying in a nice hotel only 100m from the Church where Vasco De Gama was originally buried.
Today we have been looking at trains. It is complicated.
There are 4 classes of travel, there are also at least 6 different types of seat/beds. There are three types of conditional ticket ranging from – definitely going, through – turn up you might be lucky, to – waiting list only.
Trains are booked up days in advance.
As a result we have found ourselves unable to get a ticket out of here until the 4th.
Today we went to the train station armed with a hefty train time table.
We have now bought 6 tickets each for the next 3 weeks. This means that we have had to guess how long to spend at each of the destinations but at least we have tickets.
We were required to go and see the fat controller in his air conditioned office so that he could put us in some reserved tourist carriages.
One of the first questions any Indian asks after ‘Where are you from?’, is ‘What do you do?’. No harm in telling him I suppose. The great Indian middle class back scratching jumped into action. ‘Really? Oh in that case I will give you these seats.’ Nice one Mr Controller.
